<center>(Above) new timing and oil pump chains from AFH. This CRV bracket is needed when swapping to the taller K24 block.</center>
Air and bumpsticks - Kelford, Skunk2, Hybrid Racing, P2R
In the camshaft department, Kelford 179-Bs were enlisted, and feature a 306/298 duration and best suited for high compression aftermarket pistons with deep pockets for clearance. Kelford states that the 179-B is much more aggressive than their 179-A series drop-in cams, but like the As, they're easy on the valvetrain and timing chain making them perfect for long term use-whether that's endurance racing, street duty, or both. Backed by the Supertech valvesprings and retainers that we added in a previous installment, the Kelfords looked to be ideal for this combination of parts, and the dyno sheet at the end of this article will attest to that.
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To help bring more air into the 2.4L mill, Hybrid Racing provided their 3.5in cold air intake intended specifically for the eighth-gen. Using a 1/4-inch thick fiberglass-reinforced silicone construction, the intake charge is kept cooler than traditional aluminum intake piping. A 6-inch velocity stack and accompanying air filter are positioned just outside of the engine bay, behind and below the driver side headlight. Though we don't get much rain in SoCal these days, if the filter were to be submerged in a puddle, Hybrid's injection molded bypass manifold, which also houses the factory MAF sensor and hose ports, contains an air bypass feature that offers some additional insurance in case of the unthinkable. The silicone intake is attached to a Honda factory J35 throttle body, which is larger than the factory unit and is drive-by-wire.
The factory RBC intake manifold is a solid performer. In fact, many with K-swaps reach for the RBC unit because of its effectiveness and affordability. There are options for improvement, and Skunk2's Pro Series intake manifold is one of them. While I wouldn't have seen much of a difference at all in using this manifold with the mild bolt-ons I had on the 2.0L, the new set up would certainly benefit from the larger plenum and short, slightly larger runners. The cast aluminum manifold also comes with an insulated gasket and is a direct bolt-on.
In order to bolt the J35 throttle body to the Skunk2 intake manifold, an adapter was needed since the bolt pattern on the J series throttle body isn't the same as the Si. Power Rev Racing (P2R) has really filled a niche with a throttle body spacer and adapter plate line up. Featuring a dual bolt pattern, one drilled for the throttle body, the other for the manifold, it makes quick work of joining the two pieces. Produced in billet aluminum and precision cut, these adapters feature an OEM fit and for some applications, are available in different colors.
Note
There aren't many headers that will clear K24/K20 eighth-gen sub-frame properly, especially with aftermarket mounts. I had to search online to find a used Skunk2 Megapower which does in fact clear and is well known to make great power with the K series engine in both original and 2.4L conversions, but isn't being produced any longer. A custom-built header would be ideal, but time constraints didn't allow for it.
Fuel and grab - Deatschwerks and Spec Clutch
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Deatschwerks offers a full line of injectors and fuel pumps and they've really hit their stride in the import performance realm as of late. After explaining the engine set up, Deatschwerks recommended their DW65C fuel pump to get things started. They've managed to pack a 265lph, E85 compatible pump into an ultra quiet package. With modern day management systems, you really can't go "too big" with injectors (within reason of course) so I chose a set of Deatschwerks 600s. I won't need that much for this particular configuration, but proper tuning will trim the fat so to speak, and I have plenty of room for growth if I decide to go a different route. As with all of Deatschwerks injectors, flow rates and set balancing is done in house and balanced within 1-2 percent. A flow report comes standard with all of DW's injector sets and like their fuel pumps, they're E85 compatible.
Spec Clutch offers a number of different stages for the eighth-gen Civic, each carrying it's own torque capacity rating. I chose the Stage 2+ and aluminum flywheel and after driving the car for the last few weeks, I'm 110 percent sure I made the right choice. Everyone wants a clutch that will grab aggressively, but those that daily drive their cars don't want a sore left leg after crawling through unavoidable traffic-something you won't get with Spec Clutch's Stage 2 and 2+. The 2+ has a torque rating of 300 and though I had no plans to make that kind of power, its pedal feel is the same as the Stage 2 (torque rating 260) which, by the way, is incredibly light and almost factory-like. The drive to the dyno and back was filled with stop and go traffic so I got the chance to work the clutch pretty much non-stop. The engagement was crisp and once again, very light, but there isn't even a hint of slipping under "abusive" driving. Rock solid with an OEM feel? I'm in. Just a warning, if you talk to me in person and ask about the car, there's a pretty good chance I'm going to blab on and on about the clutch.
K-Series gurus - Sportcar Motion
With the KMOD block and all of the parts on hand, I turned to Loi Song and his crew at Sportcar Motion. Over the past few years, SCM has become the go-to destination for all things K-related. Straight swaps, fully built race engines, or the increasingly popular K24/K20 8th gen conversions, they see a regular flow of K-crazy clients day in and day out. Though I came up with my own combination of parts after way too much internet research, Song offered advice and insight based on his own builds and experience throughout the entire process. SCM had the bottom end swap done in just two days flat.
Dyno day - Church Automotive Testing (C.A.T.)
The Church dyno facility is a busy one. Morning, noon, and often nights are filled with tuning clientele. We were able to get a mid-afternoon appointment with Daniel Butler, a guy that's tuned more K-series engines than he can possibly remember. His vast experience with K24/K20 combos made him the perfect choice for tuning duties.
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On the Dynapack, Butler spent some time mapping out a starting point. After the initial run, the car was sounding better and better with each blast. About an hour later, Butler was inching ever closer to the 300hp mark, but made a few changes that saw a slight decrease in peak horsepower. The trade-off being an increase in useable torque.
Trying to write about how the car feels now is rather difficult. Yes, the difference is night and day, with real torque that you can feel from the bottom, all the way up to the top. But it's the overall feel of the engine; snappy, light, rev happy, it just wants to "go." Downshifting on the freeway is a thing of the past, requiring only that I apply a little gas in Sixth gear to scoot right around anyone in front of me. Exiting a corner is a whole new world as the car tears through Second and Third gear. Any thoughts of opting for a more aggressive final drive were quickly out the window, as the car literally tears ass through the factory issued gearing, and in quick fashion. Mission accomplished? Absolutely. The dyno sheet and the fun I've had behind the wheel ever since would attest to that ...