Project Drift King Suzuki Equator Part I: Suspension Makeover
Part 1: Custom Spindles, Coilovers, and a Three-link
47
1. This is what we rolled into Street Shock’s driveway in - 100 percent stock ’09 Suzuki Equator (before we painted it like was at THROWDOWN).
2. Shaughn Reid, owner of Street Shock in Redondo Beach, California, began the Equator’s suspension overhaul by first removing the front calipers, brake rotors, and pulling free the spindles.
3. With the lower strut bolt removed and the three upper nuts busted loose, Shaughn removed the factory strut/spring assembly.
4. This is what will be replacing the factory struts - double adjustable shocks from QA1 and 12-inch-long coil springs with a 600-pound/inch rating. We found the appropriate size shock by determining the GVW, found on the sticker on the driver door.
5. After assembling the QA1 coilover setup, Shaughn installed the unit into the factory location. Notice the blue plate between the spring perch and the top of the coilover. That piece is from a Fabtech coilover conversion kit and is part number FT30107. Some drilling was required to get the boltholes to line up just right, but it worked very well.
6. The new QA1 coilover assembly was then secured to the lower control arm without any modification. QA1’s double-adjustable shocks allow tweaking of the compression and rebound and with the included wrench, the coilover collar can be adjusted for the perfect ride height.
7. Shaughn then installed the hub bearing into the Bio Kustoms-modified spindles. Before arriving at Street Shock, we had Max Fish of Bio Kustoms modify the factory spindles creating a 3-inch drop spindle.
8. Knowing we were adding bigger wheels and planning on big horsepower from our Equator, we had Shaughn install new Sport Rotors from Stillen.
9. Moving to the rear, shop manager Ryan Murphy stepped in and measured the overall wheelbase (to ensure the axle positioning), pulled the Suzuki’s bed off, and then got busy removing the factory wheels and tires.
10. Using an air impact, Ryan removed the U-bolts and shocks.
11. Next up, brute strength aided the removal of the leaf springs.
12. To prep the axle tubes for the new suspension components, all of the tabs were cut off with a cut-off wheel.
13. and 14. Precise measurements were taken and the axle was set for ride height, wheelbase, pinion angle, shock placement, and length of link bars.
13. and 14. Precise measurements were taken and the axle was set for ride height, wheelbase, pinion angle, shock placement, and length of link bars.
15. Another step for axle prep was to grind the axle tubes down to bare metal for welding.
16. A plumb bob was used to center the axle.
17. Next, an angle finder was used to ensure the pinion angle was perfect.
18. Before moving onto the next step, a tube was spliced into the rear crossmember for the upper shock mounts.
19. and 20. Technician and fabricator John Petrucci took the necessary measurements for the new upper crossmember. The 1x1/4-inch DOM tubing was then cut to length.
19. and 20. Technician and fabricator John Petrucci took the necessary measurements for the new upper crossmember. The 1x1/4-inch DOM tubing was then cut to length.
21. John then measured along the frame for the proper crossmember link bar. In our case, the length was 21 inches.
22. The upper link bar was cut to length and then tack-welded into place.
23. Here you can see the crossmember and link’s initial shape taking form.
24. To provide the mounting location of the wishbone, the center of the crossmember was measured and marked. In this instance, it was 39 inches.
25. Also from QA1, we ordered several heim endlinks and threaded tubes to make up the wishbone ends.
26. Those endlinks are important because they’ll join our wishbone to the crossmember and our link bars to their frame mounts. This shows you where the center link of the wishbone will be mounted (with the supplied tabs).
27. It was now time for John to weld the tabs onto the crossmember. For all you brave guys out there, we do recommend gloves.
28. Using a tube bender, Ryan bent the 1x1/4-inch DOM tubing for the wishbone.
29. A drill press was then used to fishmouth the tubing at the right angle so that the tubing could be joined with the center piece of the wishbone.
30.-32. John then expertly TIG-welded each piece of tubing to the center piece and then welded the threaded end links at each end of the tubes
30.-32. John then expertly TIG-welded each piece of tubing to the center piece and then welded the threaded end links at each end of the tubes
30.-32. John then expertly TIG-welded each piece of tubing to the center piece and then welded the threaded end links at each end of the tubes
33. Because of the endlinks threaded rod, the wishbone is adjustable. After careful measurements were taken, the rear wishbone’s tabs were welded to the axle tubes.
34. Here you get a good idea of what the wishbone looks like and you can see the quality of the welds in place for the endlink brackets.
35. The axle was then measured to make sure the lower link bar brackets were squared on each side. Once the spot was marked, the link bar brackets were welded in place.
36. This shot gives you a peek of the lower link bars bolted in place. It’s important to note that at least six inches of separation between the upper and lower link bars is needed.
37. Back to the rear crossmember we showed you in photo 18, the QA1 shocks were hung from the welded-in tube.
38. This part is extremely important. John set t he QA1 shocks at 30 degrees so that when the Equator hit a bump with both wheels, we'd only use 75 percent of each spring rate. When one wheel hit a bump, 100 perfect of the spring rate of one coilover would be used. this setup should provide a balanced feel and give our Suzuki an improved ride.
39. John also welded these lower shock mounts and then bolted the assembled QA1 shocks and springs in place. All the tubing, including the axle, then received a coat of semi-gloss rattle can.
40. - 42. With an angle finder and tape measure in hand, the pinion angle was double-checked and the wishbone links and lower links were adjusted to get the pinion angle just right.
40. - 42. With an angle finder and tape measure in hand, the pinion angle was double-checked and the wishbone links and lower links were adjusted to get the pinion angle just right.
40. - 42. With an angle finder and tape measure in hand, the pinion angle was double-checked and the wishbone links and lower links were adjusted to get the pinion angle just right.
43. Once the bed was back in place, we bolted on our new 20-inch MB Wheels Gunner 6 wheels. Providing the contact patch and helping our Equator reach its full performance potential, we wrapped the wheels in Continental CrossContact UHP 255/45R20 high-performance tires.
44. A nice perk about buying wheels from Discount Tire Direct is their vast inventory of locking lugnuts for your new wheels. For our combo, we used a set of Discount Tire's Gorilla Locks.
45. and 46. With the wheels bolted on and the Equator back on terra firma, we drove the Suzuki straight to Porter's Alignment and Brake Service for an alignment. Mario used the QA1 wrench to adjust the coilover collar to achieve our desired ride height.
45. and 46. With the wheels bolted on and the Equator back on terra firma, we drove the Suzuki straight to Porter's Alignment and Brake Service for an alignment. Mario used the QA1 wrench to adjust the coilover collar to achieve our desired ride height.
48. Before we left Port's Alignment, we snapped this pic of the Suzuku at ride height. The stance is perfect and thanks to Bio Kustomz and Street Shock, we should have what we need to do beautiful drifts.
49. After a quick test drive, we adjusted the QA1 coilovers by tweaking the compression and rebound settings. It was as simple as turning a knob.
50. At our inaugural THROWDOWN performance truck shootout, the Suzuki instantly gained respect from the other truck competitors to put the power to the pavement. To see how we made more then 300 rwhp from a V-6, check out next month's issue.
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47
1. This is what we rolled into Street Shock’s driveway in - 100 percent stock ’09 Suzuki Equator (before we painted it like was at THROWDOWN).
2. Shaughn Reid, owner of Street Shock in Redondo Beach, California, began the Equator’s suspension overhaul by first removing the front calipers, brake rotors, and pulling free the spindles.
3. With the lower strut bolt removed and the three upper nuts busted loose, Shaughn removed the factory strut/spring assembly.
4. This is what will be replacing the factory struts - double adjustable shocks from QA1 and 12-inch-long coil springs with a 600-pound/inch rating. We found the appropriate size shock by determining the GVW, found on the sticker on the driver door.
5. After assembling the QA1 coilover setup, Shaughn installed the unit into the factory location. Notice the blue plate between the spring perch and the top of the coilover. That piece is from a Fabtech coilover conversion kit and is part number FT30107. Some drilling was required to get the boltholes to line up just right, but it worked very well.
6. The new QA1 coilover assembly was then secured to the lower control arm without any modification. QA1’s double-adjustable shocks allow tweaking of the compression and rebound and with the included wrench, the coilover collar can be adjusted for the perfect ride height.
7. Shaughn then installed the hub bearing into the Bio Kustoms-modified spindles. Before arriving at Street Shock, we had Max Fish of Bio Kustoms modify the factory spindles creating a 3-inch drop spindle.
8. Knowing we were adding bigger wheels and planning on big horsepower from our Equator, we had Shaughn install new Sport Rotors from Stillen.
9. Moving to the rear, shop manager Ryan Murphy stepped in and measured the overall wheelbase (to ensure the axle positioning), pulled the Suzuki’s bed off, and then got busy removing the factory wheels and tires.
10. Using an air impact, Ryan removed the U-bolts and shocks.
11. Next up, brute strength aided the removal of the leaf springs.
12. To prep the axle tubes for the new suspension components, all of the tabs were cut off with a cut-off wheel.
13. and 14. Precise measurements were taken and the axle was set for ride height, wheelbase, pinion angle, shock placement, and length of link bars.
13. and 14. Precise measurements were taken and the axle was set for ride height, wheelbase, pinion angle, shock placement, and length of link bars.
15. Another step for axle prep was to grind the axle tubes down to bare metal for welding.
16. A plumb bob was used to center the axle.
17. Next, an angle finder was used to ensure the pinion angle was perfect.
18. Before moving onto the next step, a tube was spliced into the rear crossmember for the upper shock mounts.
19. and 20. Technician and fabricator John Petrucci took the necessary measurements for the new upper crossmember. The 1x1/4-inch DOM tubing was then cut to length.
19. and 20. Technician and fabricator John Petrucci took the necessary measurements for the new upper crossmember. The 1x1/4-inch DOM tubing was then cut to length.
21. John then measured along the frame for the proper crossmember link bar. In our case, the length was 21 inches.
22. The upper link bar was cut to length and then tack-welded into place.
23. Here you can see the crossmember and link’s initial shape taking form.
24. To provide the mounting location of the wishbone, the center of the crossmember was measured and marked. In this instance, it was 39 inches.
25. Also from QA1, we ordered several heim endlinks and threaded tubes to make up the wishbone ends.
26. Those endlinks are important because they’ll join our wishbone to the crossmember and our link bars to their frame mounts. This shows you where the center link of the wishbone will be mounted (with the supplied tabs).
27. It was now time for John to weld the tabs onto the crossmember. For all you brave guys out there, we do recommend gloves.
28. Using a tube bender, Ryan bent the 1x1/4-inch DOM tubing for the wishbone.
29. A drill press was then used to fishmouth the tubing at the right angle so that the tubing could be joined with the center piece of the wishbone.
30.-32. John then expertly TIG-welded each piece of tubing to the center piece and then welded the threaded end links at each end of the tubes
30.-32. John then expertly TIG-welded each piece of tubing to the center piece and then welded the threaded end links at each end of the tubes
30.-32. John then expertly TIG-welded each piece of tubing to the center piece and then welded the threaded end links at each end of the tubes
33. Because of the endlinks threaded rod, the wishbone is adjustable. After careful measurements were taken, the rear wishbone’s tabs were welded to the axle tubes.
34. Here you get a good idea of what the wishbone looks like and you can see the quality of the welds in place for the endlink brackets.
35. The axle was then measured to make sure the lower link bar brackets were squared on each side. Once the spot was marked, the link bar brackets were welded in place.
36. This shot gives you a peek of the lower link bars bolted in place. It’s important to note that at least six inches of separation between the upper and lower link bars is needed.
37. Back to the rear crossmember we showed you in photo 18, the QA1 shocks were hung from the welded-in tube.
38. This part is extremely important. John set t he QA1 shocks at 30 degrees so that when the Equator hit a bump with both wheels, we'd only use 75 percent of each spring rate. When one wheel hit a bump, 100 perfect of the spring rate of one coilover would be used. this setup should provide a balanced feel and give our Suzuki an improved ride.
39. John also welded these lower shock mounts and then bolted the assembled QA1 shocks and springs in place. All the tubing, including the axle, then received a coat of semi-gloss rattle can.
40. - 42. With an angle finder and tape measure in hand, the pinion angle was double-checked and the wishbone links and lower links were adjusted to get the pinion angle just right.
40. - 42. With an angle finder and tape measure in hand, the pinion angle was double-checked and the wishbone links and lower links were adjusted to get the pinion angle just right.
40. - 42. With an angle finder and tape measure in hand, the pinion angle was double-checked and the wishbone links and lower links were adjusted to get the pinion angle just right.
43. Once the bed was back in place, we bolted on our new 20-inch MB Wheels Gunner 6 wheels. Providing the contact patch and helping our Equator reach its full performance potential, we wrapped the wheels in Continental CrossContact UHP 255/45R20 high-performance tires.
44. A nice perk about buying wheels from Discount Tire Direct is their vast inventory of locking lugnuts for your new wheels. For our combo, we used a set of Discount Tire's Gorilla Locks.
45. and 46. With the wheels bolted on and the Equator back on terra firma, we drove the Suzuki straight to Porter's Alignment and Brake Service for an alignment. Mario used the QA1 wrench to adjust the coilover collar to achieve our desired ride height.
45. and 46. With the wheels bolted on and the Equator back on terra firma, we drove the Suzuki straight to Porter's Alignment and Brake Service for an alignment. Mario used the QA1 wrench to adjust the coilover collar to achieve our desired ride height.
48. Before we left Port's Alignment, we snapped this pic of the Suzuku at ride height. The stance is perfect and thanks to Bio Kustomz and Street Shock, we should have what we need to do beautiful drifts.
49. After a quick test drive, we adjusted the QA1 coilovers by tweaking the compression and rebound settings. It was as simple as turning a knob.
50. At our inaugural THROWDOWN performance truck shootout, the Suzuki instantly gained respect from the other truck competitors to put the power to the pavement. To see how we made more then 300 rwhp from a V-6, check out next month's issue.
